In the years since November 17, 1989, when Prague's students took to the streets to help bring down the 40-year-old Communist regime, the "hundred-spired city" has enjoyed an exhilarating cultural renaissance. Amid Prague's cobblestone streets and gold-tip spires, new galleries, cafés, and clubs teem with young Czechs (the middle-aged are generally too busy trying to make a living) and members of the city's colony of "expatriates." New shops and, perhaps most noticeably, scads of new restaurants have opened, expanding the city's culinary reach far beyond the traditional roast pork and dumplings. Many have something to learn in the way of presentation and service, but Praguers still marvel at a variety that was unthinkable not so many years ago.

The arts and theater are also thriving in the "new" Prague. Young playwrights, some writing in English, regularly stage their own works. Weekly poetry readings are standing room only. Classical music maintains its famous standards, while rock, jazz, and dance clubs are jammed nightly. The arts of the new era -- nonverbal theater, "installation" art, world music -- are as trendy in Prague as in any European capital, but possess a distinctive Czech flavor.

All of this frenetic activity plays well against a stunning backdrop of towering churches and centuries-old bridges and alleyways. Prague achieved much of its present glory in the 14th century, during the long reign of Charles IV, king of Bohemia and Moravia and Holy Roman Emperor. It was Charles who established a university in the city and laid out the New Town, charting Prague's growth.

Prague regained its status as a national capital in 1918, with the creation of the modern Czechoslovak state, and quickly asserted itself in the interwar period as a vital cultural center. Although the city escaped World War II essentially intact -- a minor miracle since the country is bordered by Germany to the west and Poland to the east -- Czechoslovakia fell under the political and cultural domination of the Soviet Union until the 1989 popular uprisings. The election of dissident playwright Václav Havel to the post of national president set the stage for the city's renaissance, which has since proceeded at a dizzying, quite Bohemian rate.

Prague Castle (Prazsky hrad), Charles Bridge (Karluv Most), Old Town Hall and Astronomical Clock (Staromestska Radnice), Old Town Square (Staromestske namesti), St. Vitus Cathedral (Chram svateho Vita), Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske namesti), Strahov Monastery (Strahovsky klaster), Jewish Quarter (Josefov), Vysehrad, Church of St. Nicholas (Chram svateho Mikulase).

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